Saguache

Saguache lies in the northern part of the San Luis Valley, a high basin in south-central Colorado that runs nearly 200 kilometres from Poncha Pass in the north to the New Mexico border. At about 2,350 metres the town is well above the Colorado plains, but the valley floor is so broad and level that the elevation is easy to forget. What strikes visitors is the scale of the landscape: the Sangre de Cristo Mountains form a long wall to the east, with the San Juan range and the rolling Cochetopa Hills to the west and north, and the sky takes up most of the view.

The Utes lived and hunted through this country for generations, and the name Saguache comes from a Ute word. White settlers and miners began arriving in the 1860s, and the town grew in the 1870s as a supply centre for ranches and for the mines in the surrounding mountains. It became the seat of Saguache County and has kept that role ever since. Ranching, hay and some farming remain the base of the local economy, and residents often describe the community as independent and slow to change.

Today Saguache has a population of just over five hundred. The main street, Christy Avenue, is lined with older brick and stone buildings that give it a Western look without any show. There are a few cafes, a small grocery, a hotel and some lodging, galleries and craft studios, and a few civic buildings. Some businesses keep short hours in the off season, so check before you plan a meal.

The Saguache County Courthouse is the best-known landmark. Built in 1910 and 1911 in a neoclassical style, it stands at 501 Christy Avenue and remains in use as county offices, so visitors typically admire the exterior and the grounds rather than tour it. Its columns and pale facade make it stand out among the smaller buildings around it. The Saguache County Museum nearby tells the story of the valley with exhibits on ranching, Ute history, mining and the early settlers, and is a good way to put the landscape in context. Check opening times, because the museum keeps seasonal hours.

The surrounding country is the real attraction. Saguache Creek runs from the hills and offers fishing in the upper reaches, and forest roads lead into the Cochetopa Hills and the national forest, where you can camp, hike or drive for hours without meeting many people. In autumn the aspens along the higher drainages turn gold, usually in late September. Wildlife is plentiful: elk, deer, pronghorn and sandhill cranes pass through the valley, and the cranes gather in spring near Monte Vista to the south. The area is also famed for dark skies, thanks to its elevation, clean air and distance from city lights, and a clear night here shows the Milky Way in detail.

The valley is home to several hot springs and spas, among them places near Villa Grove and Moffat, an easy drive from Saguache, and they make a relaxing end to a day outdoors. For those wanting more to see, Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve lies roughly an hour and a quarter away at the other side of the valley and combines naturally with a stay in Saguache. The Sangre de Cristo foothills and the town of Crestone, known for its spiritual communities and dramatic setting, are not far to the southeast.

The best months are May through October, when roads are open and days are warm; mornings and evenings stay cool even in July. Winters are cold and dry, with clear skies, and snow can close back roads. Spring winds are common across the open valley, and thunderstorms may appear on summer afternoons.

US 285 is the main route, connecting Saguache with Poncha Pass and Salida to the north and with Center, Monte Vista and the rest of the valley to the south. The drive from Denver takes roughly four hours. Fuel stations and services are scattered, so top up in Salida or Alamosa if you plan to explore back roads.