Leadville

Leadville lies at the head of the Arkansas River valley between the Sawatch Range to the west and the Mosquito Range to the east, at roughly 3,100 metres above sea level. The setting is extraordinary, but the altitude demands respect. Newcomers often feel breathless or tired for the first day. Drink plenty of water, take it easy, avoid heavy alcohol on arrival, and give yourself time before tackling any serious trail.

Prospectors came to California Gulch in 1860 and found gold, but the real boom arrived in the 1870s, when miners realized that the heavy dark sand clogging their sluices was lead carbonate rich in silver. The town was founded in 1877 and grew quickly into one of the largest in Colorado; at its peak it had tens of thousands of residents, dozens of saloons, theatres and gambling halls, and miners working in shifts day and night. Horace Tabor, a storekeeper who grubstaked prospectors, made an immense fortune, served as lieutenant governor and briefly as a United States senator, and spent lavishly. His story, and that of his second wife, Elizabeth "Baby Doe" Tabor, became one of the best-known tales of the West. The silver crash of 1893 ruined him, and he died in 1899. Baby Doe remained at the Matchless Mine and died there in 1935.

The Tabor Opera House opened in 1879 on Harrison Avenue and was a grand theatre for a mining camp. Performers who played here included Oscar Wilde, who visited on his American tour in 1882. The building has survived as a museum with original furnishings, painted scenery and a stage that can still be seen on tours in the season. It is the most atmospheric historic building in town and a good place to start.

Harrison Avenue and the surrounding blocks form the Leadville Historic District, designated a National Historic Landmark District in 1961. Brick storefronts, the Delaware Hotel, the Silver Dollar Saloon and old churches line the street,. The mood is old mining town rather than theme park, with a mix of local shops, bars and cafes. The Ice Palace of 1895-96 was a short-lived structure of ice built nearby.

The National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum explains the geology, technology and people of mining in the United States, with mineral displays and an exhibit on the town's own story. The Matchless Mine, on the edge of town, preserves the headframe and cabin where Baby Doe Tabor spent her last years. The Leadville, Colorado and Southern Railroad runs scenic excursions in summer on a former mining line, climbing through the Arkansas headwaters.

The mountains are the other half of the experience. Mount Elbert, at 4,401 metres (14,440 feet), is the highest peak in Colorado and the second highest in the contiguous United States, and its standard routes are non-technical but long, with weather that turns quickly in the afternoon; start at dawn and be off the summit by noon. Mount Massive, the neighbouring giant, is nearly as tall. Turquoise Lake, west of town, has campgrounds, a trail around the shore and views of the range. Twin Lakes, reached by road to the south, is a glacial pair of lakes with a historic district at the old settlement. The Colorado Trail passes through the area, and Independence Pass, a high mountain road (Highway 82) that closes in winter, links the valley with Aspen in summer and early autumn.

In winter the surroundings are for skiers and snowshoers. Ski Cooper, on Tennessee Pass north of town, is a small, friendly resort with a reputation for light crowds, and the Tenth Mountain Division trained at nearby Camp Hale during the Second World War. Snow can arrive in September and remain into June, and temperatures drop well below freezing, so expect a cold stay.

Leadville is also known for athletic challenges. The Leadville Trail 100 run and mountain bike race, both held in summer, draw competitors from around the world to the high trails; in town, the races bring crowds and busy lodgings.

The best season for most visitors is late June to September, when roads and trails are open and daytime weather is mild, though thunderstorms are common in the afternoon.

Leadville is reached by car over Highway 24, the road between Buena Vista and Minturn, roughly two hours from Denver by way of Interstate 70 and Copper Mountain. Accommodation ranges from historic hotels to motels and cabins, and booking ahead is smart during race weekends.